Tuesday, March 24, 2015

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Thoughts on the Oliver after 1 week living in it.

Well, it's been a week living in the Oliver every day.   Thought that was enough time to sum up some thoughts about what I like, what I dislike, and what I'd change if I could.

Here she is at my campsite in the wilds of Pennsylvania.  I must say, I have no complaints about towing her or parking in a tight spot.   I was able to get her parked, backing in, at night.  It was no sweat really, as the backup lights are intense, and you can turn on all the exterior flood and ground lights.



Also, leveling is made easy with the 3 point electric jack system.  It only takes a few minutes.  I use a level bubble inside setting on the counter to check for level.  The one on the tongue is a bit off considering it's location.  The issue in being perfectly level is not so much for the refrigerator, but for the grey and black tanks and their dumping.  If you are cocked too low, then you will not get as much storage in the grey tank and both are more slow to dump.  So get her level and you'll be good in that regard.

Cold weather performance has been excellent.  As you can see here, this is what a beautiful spring morning in PA looks like today:



Being the cheapskate that I am, I'd prefer not to gobble up my propane using the furnace if I can get away with it.  So I've been just running the overhead heat strip and my ceramic cube heater instead.   Luckily, I brought the cube heater to use in the space in between the hulls, as I thought that if I ran the overhead, that the floor would get cold.   Well, it didn't work out that way.  I just set the cube under the dinette and blow out down the hallway.

Here you see the temps I'm getting on electric alone:



Sensor 1 is the outside temp.  #2 is in the bathroom.  #3 is the space between the hulls and #4 is the cabin temperature there by the door where the display is mounted.  Quite comfortable and not so cold under the floor.   If I run the gas furnace, then the intra-hull temp is generally around 10 degrees less than the cabin.

So far, I've haven't noticed any sweating inside or condensation buildup in between the hulls.

Another thing that I've liked is the wet bathroom.   I find that it is extremely easy to keep clean - I essentially hose it down after each shower.  It seems to dry OK if I keep the door cracked open about an inch, or leave the roof ventilator open.   At 24" square or so, the actual space for showering seems OK as well.  I suppose if you were to hang out in the trailer for the day, you'd want to at least dry the floor or get some kind of dry-tek mat for the floor so you could use the toilet without getting your feet wet.

OK, now for the stuff I don't much care for, or would change.

Believe it or not, I left from home without checking the water heater.   I just assumed it worked because I flipped the switch and the light came on.  Big mistake.  First day I had no hot water.  A cold shower makes for a cranky boy, that is certain!  Turns out, with a quick call to the factory, that upon delivery, they leave the water heater in bypass mode.  The assumption is you are going to winterize, or want it winterized.  So I needed to turn the valve for the tank to fill.  There is a thermocouple on the water heater that turns it off if there is no water inside.  Good idea!

I was asked by a reader if the refrigerator sitting low (on the floor basically) was a problem. I say no.  It's a trade-off to get the microwave up high and the pantry cabinet up high, you have to have the fridge down low.   It's just the way the layout needs to be.  I find that is a good trade-off actually.  I'm in that pantry quite a bit, and it's very convenient to have that microwave at eye level.  So it's worth it in my view.  If you just had to have the refrigerator up high, I suppose you could change the microwave to a drawer type and put that on the bottom.  I've seen those starting to appear in B-vans lately, so I guess that is a possible alternative to request, should you be ordering a new trailer.

Outlets.  Oh how I wish that I had given more thought to outlets.  First let me show you the kitchen outlet in all it's splendor:



At first blush, you may think that location is terrific.  Well it's not.  It's a pain in the keester actually.  The cords hang down and rest against often hot surfaces.   On some items, like my coffee maker, the cord is barely long enough.    Also, there are only 3 other outlets in the rig - one is under the dinette, one is in the media cabinet and one is in the closet.  If I were to do it over again, I'd want the kitchen outlet in the wall, just above the back-splash.  It would need to be GFI of course, because this is a wet area (they may all be that already, but the reset is on the outlet in the closet).  The one in the dinette area I'd put between the table top and below the window.   I'd add an outlet in the area around the nightstand, as it would be nice to have a lamp there and plug in my laptop.   In all fairness to Oliver, I could have made these changes and added as many outlets as I'd like, but I didn't think about it, or request anything.  So this one is on me.  I suppose, down the road, I could take my trailer back to Hohenwald and have these changes made.  I might.

The 12v and USB ports locations are also not very well thought through (by me).  The one over the kitchen is simply useless in that location.  Being in the ceiling, it's much too high to use a standard charging cable.   I also would not want to set my phone by the stove for charging anyways. So this outlet would be better moved to the night stand area too.

The 12v and USB outlet under the dinette is fine where it is.  You can plug in your phone and set it on the table.  Having the 12v port by the floor is probably good, as this port is most likely used for a 12v refrigerator or freezer chest that you'd want on the floor anyways.

The circuit breaker panel is a bit of a disappointment.  The door opens the opposite way of what is should, so it blocks your view of the breakers (opens left, but should open right). None of the breakers are marked as to what they are for and there is nothing in the manual. I found this rather shocking (sorry for the pun) from a builder such as Oliver, considering I've bought trailers for less than $10 grand with labeled circuits.   Also, the 12v fuses are not marked  Editor's Note - I found the markings for the circuit breakers - they were on the backside of the access panel door - since it turns opposite, it's hidden from view unless you crawl under the table and look for it.   Thought they were missing since the front face of the panel was not marked., and do not have lights for the blown circuits.  One model up of this panel has the lighted fuse panel (that is, if a fuse is blown, a little LED light shines so you know which one to replace).  My work around for this is to buy replacement fuses with the led lights built into them.  I got a variety pack for $20 on Amazon.  So I will have to go through the process of marking what circuits do what and labeling all myself.

The idea of the tanks between the hulls is a great idea, but in practice it has some shortcomings.  To fit, the grey tank and the fresh tank are long and shallow.  The black tank is up front with a long pipe to the back of the trailer for draining. It also makes for some slow dumping times.    Additionally, it makes for the potential of debris being left in that drain pipe if you don't rinse pretty thoroughly - so it's smart to use that black flush port every time you dump.   Also with the grey tank, it tends to overfill and back up into the shower pan at 80% full on the gauge.  It probably has something to do with where the drain pipe from the bathroom enters the tank - does it enter on the top or the side?  My guess is the side, based on the backup at 80%.  It's a minor quibble in the grand scheme. You can prevent the backup by closing the backflow valve (located by the toilet), but then the bath sink and shower have no way to drain, other than in the shower pan.  I have not had any issues with the fresh tank.   It seems to fill to the top and drain properly. So far, I've had no leaks or drips of any kind.

Hooks and towel bars.   I should have gotten another hook.  There is no place to hang your towel while you are in the shower.  So there needs to be one outside the door on the curb side of the trailer so you can pop open the door and grab your towel.   There is a hook in the cabin already, but I hang a jacket on that.  With it's location on the street-side, it's not in a good place for a towel anyways.   Inside the bathroom, there is a hook and a towel bar. Both are OK to use to hang a wet towel, but I think the bar is too low (or my towel is too big) as I don't like hanging my towel near the toilet.   There is also no towel bar in the kitchen for a dish towel.  There is a nice space below the counter-top and above the drawers to place one.  What would be nice is a stainless grab-handle along the entire length of this surface.

So I have ordered a couple hooks and a towel bar for the kitchen that matches what came from Oliver.  I'm OK installing these myself.  But I must say, if I'd have given it proper thought, I could have had these things done by Oliver.  I just didn't think about hooks or bars.

The trash.  There is no good place for the trash or a trash can.  So far, I'm hanging a bag on the grab handle in the entrance way.  It makes me take out the trash every morning, as it's kinda in my way.  So maybe that is a good thing after all.

That's about it.  So far, so good with just a few minor quibbles.  About what I expected.


25 comments:

  1. Nicely written and described.

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  2. Thanks, Ron. Great write up. Does Oliver give the option for the owner to specify where electrical outlets are placed?

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    Replies
    1. Isn't that obvious from the article?

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    2. Not before my first cup of coffee early this morning. Sorry.

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  3. As our current Oliver is our second, I had already encountered all the problems you mentioned and "corrected" them during this build. The only things you spoke of that I think would be difficult to do is mounting the 110 Volt outlets in the wall. I don't believe there is enough depth to do that, especially with GFI's.

    Your 80% gray tank concern may be that the inflow pipe is sticking too far into the tank and not allowing water to enter after the level reaches the mouth of the pipe. The pipe enters from the top.

    I agree about the circuit breaker panel door. Unfortunately, that's the way the mfg. makes them, I searched their site to find out if they made one in reverse to no avail.

    Great write up Ron.

    ScubaRx (Steve)

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  4. I had a similar side table in my Eggcamper where I also kept my trash can underneath. Perhaps moving the 12v charging station topside would allow the use of the space. With those access doors in overhead it would be simple to install the 12v charging over the dinette..

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  5. Also in the Airstream there is a nice chrome retractable clothesline that could easily be put up in the bath to allow the wet towel to dry. I believe amazon sells them also.

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  6. Thanks for answering my questions Ron. We are going to the factory on Friday so any other things you can think of would be appreciated.

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  7. The only thing I'd add is be sure to lay in the bed before you decide to buy. I'm only 5'10" tall, so the bed is fine for me length wise. If you were much taller, it may be an issue.

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  8. Nice to have a write-up on a not particularly well-known brand. A lot of TTs and regardless of cost, have no place for a trash can. In a previous TT we had to hang a bag off a knob on the stove. :( Clearly, TTs are designed by males with no housekeeping experience....

    TTs with composite exterior fiberglass walls typically don't have outlets and switches on exterior walls - our TT has a similar recept. under the kitchen cab. and it also is a bit of a pain.

    What is the overall fit & finish and build quality like?

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  9. Your question answered in my video in a previous blog post.

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  10. Ron, we were at the plant last week for some electrical work. We were blowing the fuse on the left side jack and found out the wrong fuses were supplied by the supplier. They were supposed to be in line fuses. It was causing crazy things to happen to the electrical system and we thought the solar system might be screwed up. It wasn't.
    Anyway, Justin replaced the fuse panel and labeled everything so it's now easy to read.
    I could send you a list if you want.

    Now our problem is the fans on the gas heater will not come on, yes I checked the fuse.The heater did work fine when we picked it up in November, and we only used the electric strip for a short time last week, and it worked fine. We should have checked it out at the plant, but had no reason to believe it would not work. Frustration reigns.

    We got 2 extra hooks but have not decided where to put them, and need to solve the hanging of the towels problem. We have been hanging a plastic grocery bag looped around one of the lights in the dinette area.

    We have a 10 day trip coming up in 3 weeks to The Grand Canyon and Dead Horse

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  11. Great to hear you are getting things sorted. It makes me wonder though, if they messed up your fuses on the jacks, what have I got?

    That would be great if you could send me a copy of how your fuses are labeled.

    I plan on putting a hook on the wall between the bathroom door and the closet door. Think that is a good location for the towel while you are in the shower. I may first try putting it up with 3M until I decide I'll keep the location.

    I'm still good with the trash hanging from the grab handle.

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  12. Ron, Here is the list for our fuses, but not sure it will be the same as yours, since Justin did some changing when he worked on it.
    1. Attic 12v 30 amp ( didn't know I had a attic)
    2. Light main 20 amp
    3. Refrig 12v 20 amo
    4. Fans 20 amp
    5. 12v recep 20 amp
    6. w/Pump 15 amp
    7. 12v w/heater 15 amp
    8. Furnace 10 amp
    9. Radio 10 amp

    The correct fuse should look like the orange one on the front jack. Look under the seat on each side and they should be right by the jacks.

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  13. Ron. I just got back from Hohenwald where they installed solar, plus two hooks and a towel bar on the pantry door for kitchen towels. We solve the bath towel issue by using Linen towels. They are thin so when folded will fit into the storage space over the toilet to keep it away from the shower. The linen is so thin it dries very fast. We use the new hooks for a clothes line to dry the towels.

    Just a comment about plugs. Fiberglass trailers as a whole present a challenge for electrical outlets because there are no spaces into which the box will go. That's why they are inside cabinets or other hollow spaces. Having come from a Casita we are thrilled with all the options for plugging into. We did have extra outlets put into the rear vanity, and one in the closet kick panel, which afford some flexibility.

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  14. Any new things to report on the Oliver?

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  15. Nothing new, everything is working as it should.

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  16. Awesome I'm glad you haven't had any problems.

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  17. Ron thanks for the write up. We just returned a few days ago from our month long trip after picking up #70 on Mar 3rd. Likewise I hope to do a full write up on the forums soon that will probably offer a few different thoughts and experiences and some things I wish we had done different in the build. But don't want to hijack your blog here. Good info.

    Thanks again

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  18. Regarding the outlets over the kitchen work surface; would these pop-up recepticles be a solution?

    http://www.cupboardsonline.com/2012/01/genius-moment-carlon-pop-up-receptacle.html

    Is there enough space behind the back of the top draw or would the draw have to be modified?

    P.S. Many thanks for your highly informative and thoughtful blog.

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    Replies
    1. make that 'drawer' :)

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    2. Boy, something like that would be ideal! Hope the folks at Oliver are still reading this blog, they should look into using that part.

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  19. It’s great to know that Oliver has been performing well, and was quite satisfactory in your one week of stay in it. I believe your heater has played a big part in that, since the weather seems to be pretty chilly back then. Anyway, thanks for sharing this with us. Have a great day!


    Brett Rogers @ Flame Furnace

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  20. Freezing weather is really frustrating especially when you're living in an RV. Good thing that you have that furnace on the track to help you feel comfy and warmth. By the way, are you still living with Oliver? I hope everything is a lot better now. Have a safe travel!

    Melinda Rose @ Phoenix South HVAC

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  21. Thanks for your comments and wonderful video. We now have an Oliver and are looking at some cold temps for the next couple of nights. Looks like single digits tonight. The Oliver is not winterized and is being kept warm in preparation of leaving for FL this Thursday a.m. I was wondering what temps your trailer endured and how it did? feedback appreciated.

    Grayson

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