Saturday, September 19, 2015

Hershey RV Show - September 18, 2015

On Friday, I went to the Hershey 2015 RV show to check out the B vans and some other things.  This was to be a meetup with my Facebook Group (Class B Camper Vans).  Angel and Eric were there and we walked around together.  Some others showed up later and on Saturday, but I didn't get to meet them.

The show appeared to be a great success!  Friday did not seem as crowded as I remember it from last year - I didn't have to wait to park or wait to get my ticket - so that was a good thing.  But there seemed to be many people there - they were expecting a higher headcount this year, and I believe they were not disappointed.  Most of the salespeople I chatted with were expecting Saturday to be crazy.

Nearly every B I saw at the show had a "sold' sticker on it.  Discounts appeared to be 10% off MSRP - not really great deals unless people were good negotiators.  With some lengthy wait times on new orders, I suspect that many paid these prices and were glad to get some of the hard to get models.  There certainly were a variety to choose from, which I'll get into below.   I also got to talk at length with Russ Garfin (Winnebago Product Manager) and Jim Hammill (President of Roadtrek).  These conversations were very elightening, which I'll get into in the sections below.

WINNEBAGO:

I had a couple of goals in mind for the Winnebago booth.  First, I wanted to see the 4x4 Era and I wanted to get a few measurements on the Travato 59k.


The Era 4x4 on display was an X model.  Was hoping for the A.   It appears that the only difference when you order the 4x4 is the drivetrain.  Nothing else is changed.  I was struck by the extreme ride height increase.   They add no steps or any other things to ease you entry into this now 4" higher coach - they use the same side step mouldings as the standard van.  I think this is a big mistake.



Here is the detailed equipment list (you'll have to zoom in to read it all):
The price with this option is $102k.  Not too bad really - they are just charging you the Mercedes Benz upcharge for the 4x4.  For comparison, the regular X is $95k.  Before you delcare that both prices are outrageous, just hold tight on that.  As we go thru the show, your opinion may change a bit.

You may be surprised at the lack of Travato coverage in this writeup.   Well, nothing is really new on the Travato front, but there was one thing I was curious about - how they fit the Truma system in the 59G.  Here is how they squeeze it in under the dinette seat.  Notice that the big metal frame that was previously used for the seatbelt mounts is now gone.


I also wanted to get a measurement on the underbed storage on the 59k.  It's 55" long x 11" wide, by 19" deep.  I think it's big enough for the gear I want to store there and leave my Stowaway2 box at home most trips.


I also was able to talk a salesman into going on to the roof and taking some measurements for me for extra solar panels.  Looks like two of the 13.5" x 58" Zamp 80 watt panels will fit.

Well, while we were photographing the Truma system, I heard someone behind me clear his throat and ask "sir, can I help you with something?".   It was none other than Russ Garfin, Product Manager at Winnebago Industries.


To my surprise, he was aware of the blog and some of my exploits.  We got to talking about the Travato.  Two points were rather interesting.  The demographic on the Travato is not really all that much younger than their other products.   Maybe it's just people who are in denial about getting older.  RV's are still an expensive exploit, so I guess it's not unexpected that buyers are older folks with money to spend.   As far as Promaster news goes, two things - don't expect the new pretty front end of the Ducato any time soon.  Apparently the American engine precludes the new parts from fitting on our version of the van.  Way to go Italian engineers!   Also, don't hold your breath for a 4x4 Promaster or Ducato.  The prototype show van was a one-off build from after market, not Fiat parts.  No product plans at all from Fiat.

I asked about the absence of Transits at the show.  He confirmed they've been playing around with some Transits, but it's been difficult with getting the chassis to work with their designs.  Ford's focus is not necessarily on RV service, so there have been technical struggles and alot of back and forth.  He couldn't commit to when we'd see any product.  Later I talked with Jim Hammill at Roadtrek and he confirmed the same thing, but added a few more interesting bits I'll share when we get to the Roadtrek booth.

One feature I never noticed before in the Era C was the stripper pole.  It may work better more toward the center.  Needs further testing I'm sure.


Overall, it looks to me like Winnebago has made some improvements in the quality of their paint work.   The black striping and the window fitment on the Travatos on display was much improved.  One thing that caught my eye was the Nascar themed RV's.  Note on this Brave that this is NOT a sticker.  I was impressed with how neat this looked close up.


AIRSTREAM:


There was not really anything new going on at the Airstream booth.  They had a few Interstate models tucked in with their trailers.  The whole display was much smaller than last year for some reason.   But the salesmen were quick to inform me that Interstate was the #1 selling Sprinter class B!  I'm sure Roadtrek and Winnebago may dispute that, but I don't know, or care, really.  I wanted to see the Grand Tour!  It's probably the closest thing to the floor plan of the Advanced RV (who wasn't at the show).

It sure was a pretty coach.  The fit and finish was excellent and many items seemed heavy duty.  Plus a few nifty, if not quirky features.   This computer workstation behind the driver's seat was excellent.  Nicely tucks away, and there is plenty of room for your feet.


Their screen door was tremendous, imposing even.  I'm sure it's very durable.  But half the aperature is permanently closed off.   I'd rather have the collapsible screen door that is in the Era & Travato.

Their rear screen door is arguably the best available.  It is fully in a track, motorized and on a remote!  I'm a sucker for anything with a remote.
You'd think everyone would have something similar.


The appliances were top notch.  This Nova-Kool refrigerator/freezer is 12v/110v only.   No LP.

The salesman told me they sourced it from a marine application.  It looks it.
The pull-out microwave was amazing.  It actually has a power opener if you can believe it.  It does take the entire aisle though.  Guess a large pan will fit.


Because this van is an XL, you get a tremendous overhead cabinet in the rear.


This one was a twin, fixed bed plan.  Center aisle all the way from front to rear.

All that pretty comes at a steep price though - $159k.
For that price, you'd think you'd get the best of everything.  But alas, you get all these ugly doors in the bodywork:

MIDWEST:

The next booth was the MidWest Automotive Designs.   They primarily do luxury limo van conversions, but they also do touring coaches.  They tell me they are not just build to order, that they have dealers and inventory on sales lots.  If what you see below makes you interested in knowing more, check out their website - www.mwautodesigns.com.  Jason Sullivan was the salesman I talked with.





These guys were the only ones with a custom fiberglass fairing on the front of their Sprinter. Think it's a good look.



Their upholstery was exquisite.  Soft buttery leather with contrasting piping.  Some models had a diamond pattern stitching reminiscent of a Bentley.
Note the integrated flat screen in the forward bulkhead (above).  Good place to watch from those plush second row seats, but not the fronts.
I liked that the hid all the control panels inside a cabinet.  Some of it is high-end.


All their wood work was real wood.  Highly polished/laquered.  That, with the leathers and suedes on the walls was very plush.  But it struck me as kind of dated.  If you like the look of private jets and limos, though, you'll feel right at home.



Their bathroom was typical for a B van.  Nothing really special.  It was big enough to shower though.  No sink hitting you in the hip, which I liked.

They use multiplex wiring, like Pleasureway.  The switches are very legible, but somehow look dated compared to the Pleasureway.

Their most interesting feature, to me, was their dual air conditioning system.  They call it a 12v AC system.  Actually, it's an additional compressor under the hood that powers a unit in the rear upper compartment.  They claim 60,000 BTU cooling.   Jason demonstrated it and it got quite cold in there with the outside temps in the mid-80's.  You have to run the van in "high-idle" though while doing this.   You also have a standard 13,500 BTU RV air conditioner on the roof that is powered by shore power or the onboard Onan generator.
So you can have the best of both worlds.  Pretty unique in the RV world, probably standard fare in the limo market.

Huge king size bed available.



The dark color scheme was too dark for my tastes, and apparently my camera too.  You can get chocolate or black, whatever your taste.





Prices for the two units on display were $155k and $145k.   So that's on the high side of the market on par with Airstream and the Roadtreks.  


COACH HOUSE:

Next was Coach House.  Their only B at the show was the Arriva.  The rest were their B+/C products.  I didn't notice anything really different from last year, other than it doesn't look like they've had the price appreciation of the other brands.



But maybe they are making it up with meager discounting.  A whole $5,000 off for the show?How generous guys!

Their outside TV mount was nice.  Protects the TV, but requires you to have another one inside.



Their screen door was a roller type.  It had a mid-point closer and a full closer, so you could set it in either position.  Neat and seemed durable enough.

This brand has pretty traditional styling.  What I thought interesting was this large fold-down table.  In the first pic, it's folded up in travel position.





Here it is unfolded.  You might feed two at this table, but the passenger seat would be more in the corner.



I had alot of difficulty putting it back in travel position.  The snap strap was hard to get around and re-snap while holding the table up at the same time.  Also, this is the only thing holding the table up and from hitting the back of your head/seat.   I think this design needs more work.



Same two big sofas that turn into twins or one big bed.  They seemed soft enough, but the backs are two low.  Not suitable for extended sitting/lounging.  Like the idea, but not the implementation.




The bathroom was as large as it's always been.  The shower is a seperate stall and a nice 24" square with a glass door instead of a curtain.  The stool is between the sink and the cabin bulkhead.

Obvious cost cutting can be seen on the front valance.  Where the Midwest had a custom fairing worth probably $1,000, Coach house starts with the cheapest MB van you can source, with unpainted ends.  Disappointing considering this van is $135k (with the generous discount).



PLEASUREWAY:


Pleasureway is one of those brands that has a mix of great and some quirky features.  They have the same Plateu Sprinter models this year and are back with their Lexor, which was a prototype at last year's show.  They actually came with two Lexor's.  One highly optioned, and the other not.  Both have the same layout.


New for 2016 is the painted bumper covers.  I think this feature is highly expected at this price point, as well as complementary to the luxury interior and features of this kind of coach.


They do leave the RAM badging on this coach, which the other manufacturers are removing.  Maybe the chrome bits is considered more bling?


Note the round box antenna on the roof of this van.  All their vans had it - you can't see it, but there is Winegard embossed in the black plastic.  I suspect is a broadcast TV antenna and not satellite.  If anyone can confirm this, let me know.


Probably the classiest of the Promaster intereiors.  Very serene to sit back there.  The width really plays into this layout, making a very spacious seating area in the back.


One of their compelling features is the multiplex wiring system.  Very nice to have all controls in one panel.

One of their quirky features - these narrow drawers in the bottom of the front hanging locker.


They do have their shower curtain game down pat.  Very effective on a track.

Their cab section can be closed off with a curtain instead of trying to fit window covers.  Nicely on a track.  This model also had the swivel front seats.

One of their new features I did not care for is the radius cabinets.  Just smooth wood with no details.  Too plain for my tastes.

Now to the best stuff.   They now, as stardard equipment, are using lithium batteries and a lithium specific charger/converter.  In this picture, you can see the converter and transfer switch bolted to the wall under the rear sofa.  Curious this is in such an open area.  Most likely for cooling, as the converter can run at full power for an extended period to recharge lithiums.  In the bottom center of the picture, you see the cover to the battery compartment.  Unlike in past vans, this one is bolted down - they don't want you in there, obviously.

Since there is no rear-door mounted spare, or under mount due to the battery box, they put it here under the sofa, taking up a lot of the storage space.  I suspect many will leave this at home.

Here is the battery box underneath.  I could not tell if there was any heating or cooling to this box.  I suspect there is not any.  Note that with the generator there, and this box, no room for a spare tire.

Lots of panels and service ports on the street side of the van.  Nothing in that lower valence.  Think I'd prefer the power connector to be more to the rear.  This van also has the tankless water heater.  LP refrigerator - note the vent.



Another thing I thought was interesting was this small wing over the water heater exhaust vent.  Not sure the purpose of it, but I suspect it is to keep exhaust gases from floating into the refrigerator vent.
Pleasureway uses the CR Lawrence windows.  This has the best look in my opinion, and allows ventilation on a rainy day.  Top notch and on par with the Sprinter conversions.




Now for some wierd stuff.   This screen door is a roll up type.  Why use that when there is a nice collapsible for the Sprinter now?
And this one with the magnets.  Wasn't this a thing on TV last year?
And this one - rolled up and snapped to the ceiling.  Is this a tent, or a van?
I have no idea what the thought is behind this "entertainment area".  It's a boatload of space for a TV.

How is this a suitable shower area?  How in good conscience can this be sold as a shower?
This is actually a good idea.  Obviously the proper step in height wasn't where the molded in step is.  So they cut a hole in it, and stuck in a power step.  Odd, but effective.
I call this a lost opportunity.  All that storage space, just gone in favor of a high headliner.  Cheap, cheap!

ROADTREK:


I was really looking forward to see the Roadtreks.  I wanted to check out the new Zion SRT and all the new Eco-Trek technologies.   I have to admit, I was a bit underwhelmed as you see in the following.



They did have a lot of models on display.  There was no shortage of product and I think that every single model was presented.

But the prices!  E-Trek at $178k MSRP! 



Even the low-tech versions are pricey.



The most you'll see as far as the tech goes are on the banners.  You really are hard pressed to see it when looking at the coaches.  It's buried pretty deep and I think that is intentional.  They really don't want you tinkering with anything, just use the coach and not worry about it.  Besides you have a 6 year warranty, so why worry?   We'll see if the market sees things the same way.  Folks online seem quite concerned, as the folks interesting in buying this kind of stuff are the very ones that want to tinker and to monitor.

Now to the Zion.  The one on display was fully optioned out, as you can see in the price.  It topped $103k, which is the very top of the market for a Promaster van.


They sure picked a flashy color for the debut of this model.  It's a very attactive color.  On their other models, this is an expensive option.  Obviously it is as well on the Zion.  Only white is in the base cost.
But alas, I was greatly disappointed.  It was full of orange peel.  The van looked like it was painted at Roadtrek and not by RAM.   In the picture below, you can see that the fender trim was just masked off and painted - you can still see some black along the edges where it meets the van.  I don't think the other manufacturers paint these parts with them attached to the van.  Just a poor practice.



At first, I was attracted to the chrome grill inserts.  Thought maybe this might be a part users could buy aftermarket.  Again, disappointment - they paint it with chrome paint, and not very well at that.

Not all is bad though, the Thule step system is really nice.  The slider door step is much larger than what you find in other vans.  All of them are actuated by opening or closing a door.  So no fumbling for a switch like on the Winnebagos.


But I question the wisdom of lowering the ground clearance right behind those front wheel.  OK if you stick to paved roads, but if you don't, watch out.



New for this year is the fairing they put down each side of the van.  It's a hard, ribbed plastic and is set just under the body panel to hide any ugly protrusions.  I like this idea very much and cleans up the appearance without all the garish fiberglass fairings they use on the Chevy's.  This is the curbside:



This is the streetside:


The streetside fairing lifts up and reveals the propane fill.  What I like is that this is directly on the tank, and not on an extension hose.



What I don't like is that the fairing over the dump outlet and macerator is not on a hinge.  You have to unlock it and lift it off to do the nasty duty.  I suspect many of these will get broken or scuffed up.  This design needs more work.

Here is the extra bed pad for the front seats to allow one of your grandchildren to sleep.  It looks like just a foldup foam pad to me.  It's hard to believe they charge money for this.  I'd not let a child sleep here.



They frame out the over-cab cubby.  It looks neat, but the opening is smaller than stock.

This is the rear couch that folds into a bed.  This is the only layout for the SRT.  Looks like a queen.  Forward of the sofa, this van is identical to the regular Zion.  The wardrobe, all cabinets, the bathroom, everything.


The bathroom looks sufficiently useable for a shower.   I'd prefer no or a much smaller sink.  I asked why not a foldup sink a-la Winnebago 59K.   After I was told how poorly that part was adapted to the Winnebago, Jim explained that they once offered a swing away sink and customers did nothing but complain about it.  So something like that is probably not in the cards in the future on a Roadtrek.




I think this may be the single biggest drawer I've ever seen in a B.  The pantry above was nice and large, but struck me as a little flimsy.



This is in the cabinet below the fridge.  I don't really know what to say about this.  Draw your own conclusions.

This is under the streetside ottoman.  It must be some kind of inverter, but there is one in the back as well that I'll show you later.

There windows are a cool design, but there are only a couple openings.  Not good in the rain, but a clean look.


Limited storage under the sofa.



I did find a panel of sorts under the sofa against the driver's side wall.  This looks to be the battery charger.  I'm not sure if this van had Eco 200, or 400, but Jim implied that perhaps a 600 could be fitted - they are thinking about it.



A close-up of the label.


Under the van.  A spare tire!  This one has the underhood generator and no Onan.  Jim really dislikes the Onans.  It must be alot of warranty claims.

Here is the infamous battery pack under the van.  It is heated and cooled by ventilation with a control system that looks after both.  I was alittle underwhelmed as I expected a big box like on the Advanced RV.  But that's the nature of the lithiums and the lower AH rating of this pack.
This is their 38 gallon water tank.  They molded it to fit across the area right behind and under the front cab seats, and aft of the fuel tank.  I suspect is stays fairly warm there.  I don't care for the dangling thin wires I see here though.

Here is the underhood "engine generator".  It' looks like just a shiny alternator to me.  There is some heavy wiring coming off it.  But no heat sink, or cooling fins, or fans that I could tell. So I suspect they don't think it needs any cooling.   The only way to tell it's different from the stock engine alternator is that it's shiny.

When I asked about how to tell the health of your battery pack and the charging system, they proudly pointed me to this gizmo mounted to the firewall.  It has an LED display that rotates thru a series of figures on voltage and amperage that is currently going on.  Not sure what that would tell me, but I suppose there is a way to glean how the system is doing.
Not sure I like how the wiring is done here.


Inside the coach, there is the typical Roadtrek 4-dot display panel.  But with the lithiums, you only are going to use the top two dots.  When the battery is depleted (11.3 volts) it drops from 3 dots to zero.  Most likely if that happens your Voltrek autostart has kicked in to resume charging.

I like the layout of the regular Zion much better.  Especially the floorplan with the facing sofas.  A power couch across the back is also an option (like in the SRT).



Other things of note from the Roadtrek display.  The CS Adventurous had the headboard option ($1800!) to keep stuff from falling between the bed and the rear doors.  Looking this over, I'm a bit appalled at the price.




They also had their version of the Sprinter 4x4.  It has the same ride height as the Era, but with much better off-road tires.





Overall, I think Roadtrek has gotten alittle better with their fiberglass work.  This 210 only had a few ripples in it.

This CS looked perfect.  Love the little doors to reveal your hookups.


But this one was poor.  I'd be reluctant to just order a Roadtrek and trust it would come out OK.  For this kind of money, I'd want to just buy one off the lot.


Some of the venerable old models still stood alone on some of their neat features.  Nobody can top this outside storage on a 210.

 But wow, there has been some inflation.  This one had a compressor fridge, but it didn't have the Eco-Trek.

If it did, you'd see the battery pack here.  That yellowy box to the left is the underfloor storage compartment under the sofa.

I was lucky enough to have a long conversation with Jim Hammill, the President of Roadtrek. I think I got a better sense of where he's coming from.  He's very proud of his product and they have worked pretty hard on developing alot of things in-house.  It seems that they are reluctant to just buy off the shelf parts and try to research and develop many of their parts and technology.  They even crash test each of their vans, which is not required, but they do it anyway.

I think Jim's heart is in the right place, but often he comes across in the wrong way online, which causes a stir in the forums.

Anyways, we talked about future layout plans and Transits, as well as some interesting building techniques used in the Zion to hold down costs and boost production.  They are planning a new layout for the Zion similar to the Winnebago 59K (but better!).  No word on the timing of that release.   To build the Zion, they cut the floor on a CNC machine.  They cut notches in the floor to fit the cabinets and bulkheads, creating a very strong mounting technique, but also easy to assemble.   His comments on Transits mirrored what Winnebago was saying.  Slow resolution of the technical issues with Ford.  But interestingly, he says there is not much price advantage over the Sprinter (~$2,000).  So not really a compelling choice price wise.  So will they come out with one?  Not sure, can't commit.  We also talked about demographics and ownership.  The average ownership of a Roadtrek is around 5.5 to 6 years.  With the 6 year warranty, he thinks it gives most people the peace of mind to be under warranty until they trade up.  It also boosts the resale value of the vans that get on the market earlier than that.   

OTHER STUFF:

Inside the Giant Center were the usual vendors.  Hawking everything from timeshares to resort destinations to cleaning products and accessories.   The arena floor was mostly taken up by Camping World.  A few things that caught my eye:

Uncommon USA was there displaying their collapsible aluminum flagpoles that you could attach to your reciever hitch.  Some of them were enormous.  Not sure where you'd carry that in a B-van, but they were impressive.  Old men like flagpoles for some reason.  www.uncommonusa.com

I talked at length with RVKR Development about their Yakups brand of upright kayak and bike racks.  These allow you to carry 2 bikes and 2 hard side kayaks.  This also attaches to your hitch reciever.  The reps name was Larry Gray and he said if we had of group of buyers he could give us a little discount.   Neat, solid looking rack.  www.rvkayakracks.com

The final thing has nothing to do with RV's.  It's a portable hot tub (brand is Softub) that is made out of polystyrene foam.  Weighs only 60 lbs and has an equipment module for easy hookup and assembly.  www.softub.com  The rep was Jayne at Innovative Spas in Virginia Beach.

FINAL THOUGHTS:

So that is my lengthy trip report for Hershey 2015.  I hope I didn't bore you too much.  The bottom line is that I didn't see anything that would make me want to cancel my order for the Travato 59K.  I'm still impressed with the balancing act Winnebago does with quality, price and innovation.  By far it's the best value on the market.  But if you have a bigger budget, there are many compelling choices out there as you see in the pictures above. 

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Another Vile and Disgusting Timbrens Install!

It seems that I end up installing the Timbren rubber helper springs on just about every truck I own.  They work wonderfully as an economical (cheap!) alternative to airbags.

Typically these just replace the stock bump stops and give some stability as well as aid the handling dynamics when driving with a load in the back.  If you're interested, you can buy them here: Etrailer.com Timbren Part No. TFPR001.  If you want to read more about how they work, then click here: Timbren Manufaturer's Website

On my Promaster 3500 Winnebago Travato, I wasn't having any issues, per se, but I did notice that this van sits a tad lower than my last one - about 1/4" to 1/2".  With the generator hanging down so low below, I wanted some assurance in knowing I wouldn't bottom out on a rough road.

As has been the case in the past, they come in a very small box.  Mounting hardware varies by vehicle type - some just pop into the bumpstop cups, some need to be bolted.  On the Promaster, they need to be bolted, and you need to remove the stock bump-stops and their mounting cups.  But fear not, it's really easy with a few tips I'll give you below.


First thing you do is take them out of the box (duh).  Then you bolt the top hats onto the rubber cylinders.  You'll need a socket set with a 5-6" extension so you can reach the bolt head on the inside of the rubber spring.


Next you need to jack up your van.  Be sure the parking brake is securely set and chock your front wheels.   Be sure that you jack in the appropriate spot - there is a specific place on the front side of the spring mount for you to do this - there is a picture in your Owner's manual to show you exactly where.  Since the van is unibody, you can really screw up your vehicle if you jack it in the wrong spot!   I used a 6,000 lb jack to do this, which is about the minimum I'd recommend.  Also, it a wise move to place a jack stand under the spring mount in case your jack fails while you are under the van.



Here is the stock bump stop.  It's the orange thingy.  Simply grab it and pull it out.  It should come out easy.   The cup at the top is another story.  It's screwed into a 10mm bolt that is welded to the vehicle frame.  You have to turn the cup counter-clockwise to get it out.  It was too tough to do by hand (plus it has sharp edges).


So I used a rubber oil filter strap wrench I had in the toolbox!  Easy peasy.  Here is the cup next to the wrench.  Note the threaded bolt on the top.


Here is the mounting plate that is left after you remove the cup.  In the hole are the threads you'll need to install the Timbren.


Simply line up the Timbren assembly with the hole and thread it in.  The threads are fine, so it will take many turns to get it fully seated.  Once it's down flush to the plate, then use the strap wrench to give it a final half-turn and you are done.



Gently lower the van back down and do the same process on the other side.  Note that with the jack removed, the Timbren completely rests on the axle.  This was to be expected, because there is some compression on the van's suspension since the conversion interior is a lot of weight - there is around 1800 lbs of payload in the van - a lot less than an empty cargo van!


The whole project should only take you an hour if you have your tools and parts organized.  

Before the install, I measured the distance from the ground to top of the wheel well - 31.5"  When I was done, it measured 32.5".   So I gained 1" of clearance.   I also measured at the lowest point on the van - under the generator frame.  There I gained 1/2".   I'm a bit perplexed that it also wasn't 1", but I'm sure someone will suggest what the deal is on that.

Well I hope you enjoyed this vile, disgusting and perverted project.  I get a lot of grief on forums for my liking of these things.  So far, I've had good luck with them, and I'm sure I will on the Promaster as well.

Saturday, August 8, 2015

WeatherTech Side Window Deflectors & Other Odds and Ends

Got a few items from UPS when I got home this week.

One of the things I was wanting to try were the WeatherTech Side Window Deflectors.  These allow you to crack the front windows open to allow air flow when it's wet out.  With the Fantastik fan running (I installed the Aero cover a few weeks ago) it will just cavitate if you don't have a way for air to be drawn into the van (the bathroom vent doesn't allow much air to come in).   So I ordered this one on Amazon.  The model number for the Promaster is 80749.  Amazon: Weathertech Side Window Deflectors Model 80749

It came in this big box.  The items were well protected and arrived unscratched.



Here is the window prior to installation.




Here it is installed.  They simply press in.  The trick is to start on the bottom (it braces itself from the bottom) and then press it in place working toward the top of the window.



Here it is from the inside.  You can open the window about 2 inches.  I suppose an enthusiastic thief could just rip this loose and break your window and get in.  So use caution leaving your van unattended this way.  But I think most would be hard pressed to notice that your window is open a little as the deflector is dark and covers the opening very well.




I don't think it blocks the view of the mirrors.



So we'll see how it goes with these.  The window seems to move a little slower when closing.  I may need to lubricate the edge of it.   I selected this brand because there is no sticky tape holding them in.  So if they don't work out, I can just pull them out and discard them.

The other items I got are related to food & cooking.

I've started using my microwave more and more.  It started with cooking corn-on-the-cob (see Cooking Corn-on-the-cob in the microwave ).  Then heating the Presto MyJo (No Power Keurig Machine).  Now this: Amazon: Potato Express.  Reviews are pretty good for cooking baked potatoes and sweet potatoes.  I'm a meat and potatoes kind of chef, so I hope this thing works out.

Another thing I like to do is sip whiskey.   A good tumbler is key for this, but also I like big ice.  These trays make 2" cubes and being silicone, it's easy to get them out.  This one fits perfectly in my RV's freezer section (on end) so there is still room for other stuff. Amazon: Silicone Ice Cube Tray



I have a large collection of folding tables.  None of them have really tripped my trigger.  I found this one to hold my new Camco Olympian Grill.  I like it because it is so compact, is made of aluminum (so it's light) and will fit really well in the Stowaway2.  It seems sturdy enough.  Amazon: Aluminum Folding Table

Here is how it came out of the box.



Legs extended to the higher of the two settings.  You have to push in two pins on each side to raise or lower the legs.  Once the cross-supports are locked in place, it's quite sturdy.



With the grill set on it.  Seems like the correct height for cooking, and there is room enough for grill tools and a plate with meat on it.



Packed away in the Stowaway2.  Nice and out of the way.


Sunday, July 26, 2015

Adding 12 volt, USB and Voltmeter Outlet.

I got the idea for this on a forum.  My model of Travato doesn't have but one 12v outlet in the house, and no USB's.  I was using an adapter that is in the back wall of the van to charge my phone as well as use some accessories like an inflator.

There are USB's in the dash, but they only are active if the key is in the run position.   You can also hardwire something to the chassis battery, but that has it's own downsides.

So I got this device on Amazon.  It has a cigarette lighter port, a digital voltmeter and a 2 port USB (high and low amp):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XN1DAP0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I wanted the outlets near the front of the van.  It would also be nice to see the battery voltage whilst standing outside the van.  So the side of the dinette seat would be ideal.

First, you mark off the vinyl.   An ink pen will do:



Then carefully score and cut back the vinyl.  You don't want this cut any more than necessary - it also can snag on the hole saw.    The cutting is a two part process - first you cut out a bit of the circles so you can start the hole saw ( if you are familiar with these, they have a drill bit in the center surrounded by a round cutting blade) - this positions your holes so their alignment is perfect.  Then cut the vinyl out as one strip to expose the holes.  Then using your hole saw, drill out the holes.

Place the faceplate over the cuts, and install the individual items - they have little backing flanges on the backside.   Then with a pilot bit, drill out the screw holes and then drive in your screws:



The backside:  Be careful drilling the holes - this is only paneling, so just use a little pressure on your drill.


Now for the wiring.   The distribution panel has an open circuit for an addition 12v item.  So I soldered a wiring harness together  to join the 3 pos and neg wires to a single 12 gauge wires to attach to the back of the distribution panel.  The positive side (red) needed a blade connector, the neg side (white) I put on a ring connector.  Pop on the positive and screw down the negative.





The wires route to a gap in the cabinetry between the dinette and under the closet:
I'll zip tie these up later.



All that's left is to add a fuse to the panel (20 amp at the top) and make it hot.  My individual leads also have their own fuses, so I think the system has ample protection.



Looks like it works!



Saturday, July 25, 2015

Smart Battery Follow-up

I thought it would be fun to hammer my battery today. I've got everything 12v turned on - refer on 12v, the tv, the stereo, the fantastic fan on high and every light on. We'll see how long she goes. I have the autostart on the generator set to come on at 12.1v - that should be deep I'd think. Any guesses how long to expect?

At 4 hours, I was at 12.1 volts and the generator started. From the chart on Smart Battery's site, that should be essentially empty, but I have no real way of telling. Interestingly, the gauge on my Onan remote was reading 12.1 volts, but the gauge I have in the cabin was reading 11.8. I think I can attribute that to the 12v pickup on the generator is a straight line to the battery, whereas the 12v outlet in the cabin has the block and fuse panel and wiring between it.

Anyways, I have some observations on charging. Firstly, the charger is running flat out - both fans spinning. Even though the spec is the same as my old charger (725 watts/45 amp) it must be putting out more of that because I popped my GFCI in the garage (running on a 15 amp drop cord). Could just be a coincidence, but the only time it's done that was with the AC and other things running and a long drop cord.

Secondly, the voltage showing on the gauge is not the same as I was seeing at the shop. When I first installed the battery, it was reading 14.5 volts. I now suspect that the battery was delivered fully charged and not the 30-40% charge I was led to believe. Now, with the depleted battery, the voltage in the cabin started at 13.2 and is rising. After 2 hours it's bouncing 13.8 to 14.0. So instead of the constant 14.5 this charger claims to put out, it either ramps up until it peaks when the battery is full, or it's just the method of how we are measuring the voltage, I don't know.

As I said before, I started this test with a hot refrigerator - above 80 degrees inside (it's quite hot here). So I suspect that it was needing 15 or more amps trying to cool down. It did get close to desired temps inside in the 4 hours, which was better than I was expecting. My fans, lights, tv's etc, must be using 4 or 5 amps. 1 light in the bathroom is incandescent, so it's probably 1 amp by itself. Same for the 2 fans. The TV and stereo are negligible. The CO detector is probably 1 amp. I have no idea on the LP system - the manual says to engage the cutoff switch when not in use to avoid draining the battery, so it must have some parasitic load.

I've been on the charger for almost 3 hours. I really expected to be fully charged by now, but I guess not. I'll report back when the voltage is back at 14.5. I don't think it needs to sit for any length of time when it reaches that point.

Even though the current voltage is reading 14.0 volts with the charger running, if you shut it off, the voltage reads 13.4 volts, which would indicate a full battery. But you have no way of knowing if it's truly full. Good thing with lithium is that it doesn't really matter - it is just fine to be partially charged.


OK, at 3.5 hours, the voltage is reading 14.5 volts. The charger is cool and the fans not blowing. So now I'm pretty sure that the battery is now full. But also, it doesn't appear it is putting anything into the battery, and could probably be just left online.

It just strikes me that it shouldn't work this way. But the charger may be putting out a constant voltage to the battery, but the 12v system in the coach is not reading it that way.

Update 7/26/15:

Today I re-ran the test with a few tweaks.

First, I left the RV plugged in over-nite. The refrigerator was cold to start with. Started at 13.4 volts.

Turned everything on again. I suspect the refer is now drawing less. Not a whole lot though.

I adjusted the setting for the Onan autostart to 11.9 volts.

I heard it come on after 5 hours. So that's an additional hour run time. I turned off the generator and started the engine.

After an hour of idling, if you shut down the engine, the system shows 13.2 volts. That's a bit short of the full charge 13.4. After two hours, it was reading 13.3, so I shut it off. Close enough.

Not sure if driving the van would do any better.

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Smart Battery Lithium Ion Battery Project

ATTENTION READERS!   I NO LONGER ENDORSE OR RECOMMEND THE SMART BATTERY.  YOU HAVE MOST LIKELY COME HERE VIA A LINK FROM SMART BATTERY'S WEBSITE.   I HAVE NEVER AGREED FOR THEM TO LINK TO THIS BLOG AND ADVISE THEM TO BREAK THE LINK.   I'M NOW RECOMMENDING STARK POWER'S BATTERY AS A MORE ECONOMICAL AND MORE FULLY FEATURED CHOICE.  CHECK THEM OUT AT www.starkpower.com



My Travato came stock with one Group 31 AGM battery from NAPA.  This is a good battery, 110 AH.  I could make it a couple days running lights, fantastic vent fan, entertainment systems and the water pump.  Overnite with the furnace blower would be dicey.

Wanting more capacity, I did a project adding a second battery of the same type.  I scabbed onto the existing battery frame and mounted another battery under my van.  I wasn't exactly thrilled with the DIY look of this installation.  It would work just fine - I doubled my AH capacity, but I was having anxiety about how this was mounted and found myself constantly checking under the van to see if the batteries were OK.  So I started looking for another solution.

I've been talking about and researching putting LiFePO4 batteries in my Travato for some time.   The more I looked into this, the more frustrated I became in finding information that agreed - mostly there are divergent opinions on usage, charging, etc.  There is also a plethora of equipment to manage and charge these batteries.    I like a simple approach.  I wanted to not only reduce weight and maintain the same about of capacity that I had with my 2 AGM's.  Also key to my thinking was to do something that was completely reversible if it didn't work out.

I started out thinking I'd install 2 or 3 batteries and really up my capacity.  Or maybe one really big battery - an 8D size 300 AH unit.   Then I could get a big inverter and run appliances like the water heater and the microwave.   Well, if you can swallow the cost of all these batteries, there is definitely downsides.  Namely you have major wiring rework to do and drilling holes in the van to pass these wires thru.  The existing wiring from the converter was 6 AWG.  The wiring from the alternator is 1 AWG.  These are respectable sizes for a single battery, but inadequate for huge loads needed for multiple batteries.  If I went down this road, there was major work, major cost and could still be a disaster.

So all that said, I started looking closely at the Smart Battery brand of "drop in" type batteries.  These batteries come with a battery management system, or BMS, inside the casing.  What this does is protect the battery from over and under voltage, so it can't be damaged from running it down completely, as well as an over-zealous charger.  You can read all about these batteries at:  http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com

Certainly there are other brands out there.   AM Solar is starting to sell these type of batteries and Stark makes a very appealing battery as well.  Problem for me, was there were some significant wait times to get one.  Also, the Smart Battery has a 5 year warranty - the others only 1 year.

I selected a 100AH battery.  This would give me the same usable capacity in AH, and save around 140 lbs of weight (about what I have in my Stowaway2 box!).  It would fit in the protected, stout stock single battery frame the original Group 31 battery was mounted.  Another benefit would be much quicker charging - it will take up to 100 amps of charge,  so about 2 hours max to charge this battery with the charger I selected, a bit less charging with the alternator.

Since these batteries need a charging voltage of 14.4 to 14.6 volts, a new converter/charger would have to be installed.  Lucky for me, Progressive Dynamics makes a Lithium line of products that are very similar to the charger/converters they supply Winnebago.   In order to use all my existing wiring, as well as maintain the same power profile for AC devices in my van, I selected their 45 amp unit.    This is the one I got:  http://www.bestconverter.com/PD9145AL-45-Amp-12-volt-Lithium-Ion-ConverterCharger_p_604.html#.VaHG6UI-CRs

So here was what was waiting for me on the porch when I got home this week:


Step 1 was to improve my ramps a bit.  I added another layer to give me a couple inches more clearance.  The batteries had to be removed with a floor jack since they are so heavy and unwieldily in such a tight space.


So all this had to be unbolted and removed:


So here is what the battery looks like.  These are the only markings.  The case looks to be a heavy polystyrene, just like a lead-acid or AGM battery and completely sealed - no way to pry it open.


The new converter came well packaged.  Surprising how tiny it is.


Here it is out of the box.  All the wiring connections are exactly the same as the old converter.   All the bolt holes are the same for mounting as well, so no need to drill any new holes.

After the old batteries were removed, it was an easy task to secure the new battery in the old tray and tighten the nuts to hold it in place.  Lifting it up into the frame was an easy task, as it was only 28 lbs - no need for the floor jack.


Here it is mounted in place, with all wiring in place.  I taped the posts for safety.  I also re-installed the pigtail for my portable solar panel, just in case I want to use it.


Under the closet floor is where the converter/charger is housed.  The panel just pops out.  It looks like a rat's nest, but everything is neatly bundled and there is room around it for cooling.  There is an opening in this cabinet into the area under the dinette, for running the other electrical wires as well as give some more space for cooling.


Actually, there was enough slack in the wires, that after I unbolted it from the wall, I could hang it outside the closet and unscrew the connectors holding the pos/neg and grounding cables.


Here you see the new unit bolted in place, all wires connected:


Now with everything complete, I turned on the battery switch to see what I have.  Of course, everything came to life on the first try.  Below is the voltage I'm reading on the 12v system.  A bit higher than I'm used to seeing.  Normally you see 12.7-12.8 volts here.  Smart Battery told me that the battery would come with about 30-40% charge on it.   They also say that they hold 12.8 volts almost all the way to complete discharge.   To start, I'm more or less flying blind on what level of charge my battery will have.   I will just have to see how it goes for now - I suspect it'll be good for my regular weekend type trips and get fully recharged on the drive home.


Here is the reading with the power turned on and the charger/converter activated.  It slowly ramped up from 14.2 to 14.5 volts.   I never did see the max of 14.6 volts, but that may be due to the van's interior 12 volt wiring system.   Currently, I have no way to read the voltage at the battery.  That may be a next project.   The charger manual says that if you get 14.3 volts, it is within spec and is OK.    The way this charger works, it should hold voltage always, but reduce amperage as the battery gets full.  There should be no danger leaving it running, but I probably will not do that.  After it's fully charged, I'll hit the battery disconnect switch and turn off the AC power until next time I want to use the van.


Here are the "old" batteries.  They need a new home now.  Lots of life still in them.


Here is the old converter/charger.  It's a good unit.  I'll put this on the shelf in case I ever want to go back to the stock install.


That's basically it.  Now to do some endurance testing.  Smart Battery says you can hammer these batteries.  They have 108 AH total capacity and you can draw them all the way down each time between charges.  I doubt I'll be that hard on it, but I have the protection of the warranty.   The cycle time promises are 3000-5000 cycles, but that is a tremedously long life - not sure I fully buy it.   1000 cycles would be many years of service and I'd be happy with that.  Surely there will be bigger and better (and cheaper) in just a few years time.

A final thing to consider.  Lithium batteries will work in the cold, but they are not to be charged below freezing.  It can damage them.  So what I need to figure out going forward, is how warm this battery gets while it's working.  It may generate enough heat (while being discharged) to keep itself above that temp.   My van is not a 4 season RV anyways, and I rarely go on trips in the winter months.  I could install a 12 volt heating pad, but I'm going to hold off on that for now.  I store my van in a heated garage, so I'm not concerned about the winter months if I were to leave it on charge.   With lithiums, you don't need to leave them plugged in - they will hold their charge for a year or longer, so I could just let her sit from December to March.

So we'll see how it goes.  Hope you enjoyed my project.  Please leave a question or comment below.